Easter in Moldova, Daniel Vicario

Well, all the snow is finally gone and it is slowly warming up here in Chisinau. The sun is out longer and more often, and the city is slowly becoming greener as spring arrives in full force. The city itself seems to be coming to life after a prolonged winter. There are definitely more people, vendors, and street musicians.

The central park, Gradina Publica, on the main street (Bulevardul Ştefan cel Mare) has free Wi-Fi, so the warmer weather has enabled the park to look like an outdoor internet café, with dozens of people taking advantage of the great weather and free internet.

Recently, I celebrated Easter with my host family, which was interesting and enlightening. The celebration started late Saturday night, when we walked with unlit candles to the nearest church, which was newly built, but still unfinished. There was already a large crowd inside the church (since we were late), so we were relegated to the back of the church. I didn’t understand much of what the priest was saying or what the choir was singing, but I followed along as best as I could. Not long after, everyone exited the church followed by a procession of priests and altar servers. One priest carried a flame that was used to light people’s candles. As people’s candles were lit, their neighbors would use the newly lit candles to light their own. It was an impressive sight to see flames spread outward from one point in the crowd, until everyone’s candles were lit.

After that, the priest led a march around the church three times. Throughout the procession, I attempted to keep my candle lit and protected from the wind. After the third time around the church and having successfully kept my candle lit, everyone entered the church once again. There was more singing punctuated by a priest saying, “Hristos a înviat” (Christ is risen). To which we responded, “Adevărat a înviat” (True, He is risen). Eventually, the same priest started walking down the center of the church and splashing people with holy water. By this time it was already about 2 in the morning, so my host family decided to return home to rest, since at least 2 hours remained until the celebration ended.

I am embarrassed to admit that, unfortunately, I fell asleep once at home and missed the last part of the celebration, in which the priests bless the food and water that people have brought with them. Later in the day, my host family and I sat down for a traditional Easter meal, where we greeted each other with “Hristos a înviat” and responded with “Adevărat a înviat.” We then started the meal by drinking the blessed water and then eating the meat that was blessed. At the meal I was introduced to another traditional Moldovan dish – racituri, which can be described as meat jelly. It tastes a lot better than it sounds, but it isn’t my preferred national dish. And of course, we also had dyed eggs, since any Easter wouldn’t be the same without them.

Daniel Vicario is studying Romanian in Chisinau, Moldova for the Spring 2010 Semester.